Crete is the largest island of Greece, and claims to be the first European civilization; dating from the Minoan era on Crete from 3000-1400 BCE, which was at its height from 2000-1500 BCE when the famously recreated palaces at Knossos were built. The island of Crete has two things which distinguish it from other Greek islands - magnificent mountains and a remarkably rich history. The fifth largest island in the Mediterranean, the population of 500,000 is confined to the north coast by the huge mountain ranges that make up the backbone of the long, slender island. Much of eastern Crete is now lost to package tourism - a nightmare of neon and happy hours bars. The west, however, has higher mountains, a more rugged coastline and smaller beaches and is, as yet, relatively unspoilt. For those visitors who venture away from the beaches, there is a wonderful archaeological heritage and incredible scenery throughout Crete just waiting to be discovered.

The backbone of the island of Crete is dominated by the mountains which are split by spectacular gorges.

Rethymnon is situated on the main highway that runs the length of the island, and is ideally placed as a base for exploration, not only of the north coast itself but inland through mountain passes to the south coast.
The city centre still has remnants from its past, with its arched doorways, crumbling balconies and faded façades and charming Venetian buildings sitting alongside the slender minarets of Turkish mosques. The most picturesque part is the old Venetian harbour where scores of romantic tavernas line the quay and a Venetian lighthouse stands sentinel at the end of the long harbour wall. Almost every street has an abundance of cafes and restaurants intermingled with interesting craft and antique shops.

The Fortezza is the jewel in Rethymnon's crown. It is arguably the largest fort ever built by the Venetians and it is an impressive sight. Building began in 1573 CE on the ruins of a Byzantine fortress which had been built to protect the city from repeated raids by pirates and Turks. The entire population of the city could be contained within the Fortezza's walls and within there was also a barracks, a hospital, and a cathedral. Many of the buildings are now in ruins although extensive restoration work is ongoing.

Apart from the Fortezza, other landmarks include the Arimondi fountain, which dates from 1623 CE but has unfortunately been now almost obliterated by a taverna; although water still spouts from the mouths of its three lion heads: and the slender Nerantzes Djani minaret which is attached to a Venetian church built in 1227 CE, and which is visible from almost anywhere in the city.

To the south east of Rethymnon is the long, fertile Amari Valley. As you travel southwards, the vegetation turns dense green with clusters of oak and walnut. Mountain springs flow all year round, making this one of the most beautiful parts of the island. The western route is less interesting than the eastern one where you will come across the villages of Thronos, which has 14th century frescoes in the church; Amari which has a maze of whitewashed alleyways overlooked by a Venetian clock tower; Vizari where there are remains of a Roman town and Fourfounas, which is the starting point for hikers heading into the mountains. The trails are clearly marked and are easy to follow.

Due south, the road leads through the spectacular Koutaliotiko Ravine to the beach lagoon at Preveli.  Further along the coast, is the resort of Plakia.
If you follow the inland road, you will eventually reach the mountains at Agiropouli, known for its waterfalls. Travelling onwards, you will come across the remote village of Asi Gonia, which was the centre of resistance after the Battle of Crete and home of George Psychoundakis, whose war diaries were published as The Cretan Runner.

The Arkhadi Monastery is about 25 km south east of Rethymnon, and is regarded as a Cretan symbol of revolt against the Turks. In 1866 CE, 600 Cretans blew up the gunpowder store, and themselves, rather than surrender. It was restored just four years later. Each November 9 the event is commemorated all over the island with fireworks and dancing. The distinctive façade dates from 1587 and is an eclectic mix of styles. A small museum houses several religious relics and pictures of the rebels, sporting impressive moustaches and dressed in traditional Cretan costume of headbands and baggy trousers. In one of the outbuildings called 'The Sanctuary of the Dead' several rows of neatly arranged skulls can be found.

If you take the road due south from Rethymnon, you will come across the ancient Minoan cemetery at Armeni.
Spili, a mountain village, is noted for its spring and you can see the water spouting through the mouths of 19 stone lions set into a long stone wall. Another six spouts are mere water pipes, still used by the locals for washing.

The Petre and Moussella rivers flow on either side of the village of Argiopouli and feed the nearby waterfalls, which flow down through groves of plane trees. The village itself is built over the ancient city of Lappa. South of the village is a cistern which was built in 27 BCE and is still working; and a recently discovered Roman mosaic floor. Further places of interest in the area can be found to the east of the village. If you go down a stone path, you will come to the tiny Church of the Five Virgins. There is a plane tree which is reputed to be about 2000 years old, and further on you will come across ancient tombs carved out of the rock. There are believed to be hundreds of tombs here and you can walk inside many of them.

Crete's only freshwater lake is hidden from view until you are right upon it. Kournas Lake is almost circular, with a maximum depth of around 30 metres. A small sandy beach surrounds the lake and it is very popular with families, as it is very safe. You can hire pedalos and rowing boats for a trip on the lake. There are a number of tavernas and distinctive blue and white pottery is sold in the little shops that lead down to the lake.

Chania was the capital of Crete until 1971 and is arguably the island's most charming city. It is built around two harbours and has a wonderful mix of Turkish and Venetian architecture.

Laid out like a crucifix, the Agora market, built in 1911, is a delight, serving both tourists and locals. Here you will find everything from a side of beef to a posy of herbs.
Exiting the market through the east door and down some steps, you will find yourself in the busy outdoor leather market which is crammed into a narrow alleyway. Further on is the archaeological museum, which is housed in the old Venetian church of San Francesco, with a good display of Minoan pottery and artefacts.

North of the museum lies the heart of Chania, its two Venetian ports. The eastern harbour is home to the slender Venetian lighthouse at the end of the harbour wall and the squat Mosque of the Janissaries built in 1625 with its strange egg-shaped domes and spider leg arches. It was a mosque, and is now a tourist centre and exhibition hall.

Behind the mosque lies the Kastelli Quarter where there are seven recently restored vaulted Venetian shipyards. There were 17 shipyards originally, built around 1600 CE.

The rectangular west harbour is lined with tavernas and cafes, beneath the faded and crumbling façades of Venetian houses and the Firkas Tower, which was an old fortress.

South of Chania are the Lefka Ori or White Mountains and the famous Samaria Gorge, which is the longest in Europe. To the east are the quiet, peaceful villages of Apokoronas, while the west has arguably the most beautiful coastline of the whole of the island.

This distinctive region of Apokoronas is noted for its quiet, narrow roads and tiny, peaceful villages. The former regional capital at Vamos is built on a small hill and is full of beautiful neo-classical town houses which were built by rich merchants. The local preservation society runs the kafenion and taverna and the local bakery is considered to  be  the best in the region. The local tourist office is very helpful and organizes guided walks and tours of the area.

Above Kalives was the once powerful city state of Aptera which was founded around 600 BCE and is now full of ruins; including a huge triple-vaulted cistern dating from Roman times

The nearby village of Kalami is dominated by a Turkish fortress Izzedin built in 1646 and enlarged in 1872. The village boasts more than 30 springs and an interesting folklore museum. There are lots of good walks in the area.  
Other villages worth visiting are Plaka where there are also good walks and Gavalohori, which is full of traditional Cretan houses.

The important crossroads at VRISSES lies on the Chania - Rethmynon highway and has existed as a village only since 1925. Its wide streets are lined with good tavernas shaded beneath huge plane trees. This is the place to come for exceptionally good yoghurt.

The 18 km path through the SAMARIA GORGE is one the world’s most popular trails for hikers. It should be noted that due to flooding, the trail is not open all year round and visitors should check before planning their trip. The gorge is usually open from May to October when rains can cause flash floods and make the passage dangerous, if not impossible. Walkers must buy a date stamped ticket so they can be counted in and counted out and there is even a helicopter pad half way down to carry out the wounded.
Hikers are advised to put on stout walking boots and to carry water and food with them, as well as a change of clothing, before stepping onto the Xyloskilo (Wooden Staircase), a railed zigzag path that plunges down and into the gorge.
Once on the floor, the cliff walls slowly narrow as you progress until you reach the former village of Samaria which dates from the 4th century but which was abandoned in 1952. Today it is a well-worn resting place for weary hikers, with basic picnic facilities and primitive toilet facilities. Further south the walls become claustrophobically awesome until they almost converge at the Sidero Portes (Iron Gates) which stand just 9 ft apart at the base and tower straight upwards to almost 1,000 ft.

The gorge is now a national park and there are two advertised ways to walk the gorge. For those who want to follow the traditional trail, the trail begins south of Omalos, which is a small village in the White Mountains. The trail is downhill, but the terrain is difficult and it is not suitable for unseasoned hikers. The journey usually takes around 7 hours for the fit and longer if you are not so fit. There is an easier route from the port at AGIA ROUMELLI which takes you to the edge of the gorge and back. There are regular ferries to Agia Roumelli from Chora Sfakia.

For intrepid drivers, the precipitous drive down the steep zigzag road from Imbros to the Samaria Gorge is a never to be forgotten experience. However, there is little in the way of barriers and the sheer drop at the side of the road is often unprotected. The other natural hazard is caused by local drivers.

The seaside village of Chora Sfakia lies between the sea and the mountains and was used to evacuate allied troops after the Battle of Crete. The Sfakia region has had a turbulent history and long lasting feuds were not uncommon. Visitors can catch the ferry to the gorge, from the jetty. There are several excellent tavernas and ferry tickets can be purchased from a booth in the car/bus park.