Since ancient times, Ikaria has been known for its dark red wine, thermal springs, and the legend of Icarus. Situated in the Ikarian Pelagos between the islands of Samos and Mykonos, this small Greek island is only 21 miles long and 3 miles wide. Despite its size, there are plenty of beaches to choose from and the Ikarian sea is one of the cleanest in the world. Ikaria's 255 km of coastline has a diverse range of land and seascapes.Dodecanese - Greek Islands
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Since ancient times, Ikaria has been known for its dark red wine, thermal springs, and the legend of Icarus. Situated in the Ikarian Pelagos between the islands of Samos and Mykonos, this small Greek island is only 21 miles long and 3 miles wide. Despite its size, there are plenty of beaches to choose from and the Ikarian sea is one of the cleanest in the world. Ikaria's 255 km of coastline has a diverse range of land and seascapes.Ikaria has played numerous roles throughout its history, and has held a central hand in shaping the past. During the 1800's, the island was beset by continuous pirate invasions which resulted in most villages being built in the middle of the island, away from the coast and the predatory eyes of the pirates.
Up to thirty years ago, getting to Ikaria was fraught with difficulties and it was a journey most travellers thought long and hard about undertaking. The seas were notoriously rough and the nearest connecting port was in Piraeus, Athens, 143 nautical miles east and a 10 hour ferry ride away. Since there were no ports then, ferries had to drop anchor offshore, and wait for the small boats which were sent to pick up passengers. Ferries now make regular stops to the island and an airport was built 15 years ago, making the journey from Athens a mere 45 minutes.
Ikaria's coast has remained in its natural state and development has not been allowed to disturb much of the shoreline. Round the island there are small secluded coastal villages, quiet beaches, hidden coves, caves, and various rock formations to be explored.
Evdilos beach is a small sandy beach used mainly by locals looking to catch a quick swim. It's nice and quiet, but if you want more space, you're better off visiting one of the many bigger beaches in the area.
Kampos beach is next to the Roman Odeon of Ancient Oenoe, which was once used to stage ancient music and theatre productions.
To really soak up the inimitable atmosphere of the island, try to plan your visit to coincide with one of the many festivals that take place on the island. The most famous being the celebration of the Assumption on August 15th which incidentally is the name day for people who are called Maria, Panayiota and Panayiotis. Islanders celebrate with Greek traditional dancing and you’ll get the chance to learn the steps to the Ikaricos, which is special to the island. Before then, an excellent time to visit the island is on the 17th of July. This is Ikaria's Independence Day and everyone here is celebrating their freedom from Turkish rule so you can expect to see people dancing all day and night.
Another tradition special to this island is something known as Ikarian time, which makes ‘manãna’ sound like a hectic rush. Whether a person stays on the island for a few days, weeks, or years, they’ll find themselves bewitched by it and by and by will find themselves slowing down to the pace of life and enjoying it.
Once they were out over the sea, Icarus became so excited by the view that he began to fly too close to the sun. His father told him to come back down but he was so transfixed he didn't heed his warning. The sun's rays melted the wax that held the wings to his body and caused Icarus to plunge into the sea and drown. From then on, the sea became known as the Ikario Pelagos and the island was named Ikaria.
Kalymnos is about 100km northwest of Rhodes, opposite the Turkish coast with the islands of Leros to the north and Kos to the south. The island’s capital Pothia is in the south eastern part of the island, curving round a bay; and like other islands, has beautiful traditional houses, with intricate wrought ironwork balconies, as well as the ubiquitous stunning location. It is a busy town, and the main public offices are located in a magnificent historic building in the port area. There is an Archaeological and Folk Museum; as well as a Nautical Museum at the western end of the port which has a fascinating collection of exhibits relating to the island’s sponge divers.
Platis Gialos has a rather nice shingle beach with a small sandy part at one end.
The islet of Telendos , opposite Myrties, was formed by a massive earthquake around 500 CE which caused it to split it off from the mainland. The earthquake also caused the destruction of the island’s capital. Telendos is a haven for amblers and the quayside has a number of tavernas, offering good local dishes. The last ferry leaves around 10.30pm, but this is often extended during the height of the summer season due to the popularity of the island.
The former fortress of Kastelli is well worth a visit, and for those with a good head for heights, steps lead down the cliff face to a small church.
The sheltered inlet of Arginondas has a shingle beach shaded by olive and pine trees. You can also find a bite to eat here. Arginondas is popular with serious rock climbers, as the cliffs that run along this part of the coast are considered challenging.
Vathi is situated in a fertile valley about 10 km from Pothia, where groves of olive, tangerine and lemon trees scent the air. The port of Rina has a number of nice tavernas. From there, you can take a boat trip to visit the Dhaskilio cave, with its curious stalagmites and stalactites; as well as to the beaches at Alymyres and Dhrasonda, which are only accessible by boat.
The west road out of Pothia leads to the village of Vothini and to the inlet at Vlychadia where there are shingle and sandy beaches, as well as tavernas and a fascinating museum, which is free to enter. The Museum of Submarine Finds has one of the best private marine collections in Greece, with sponges, shells and corals; as well as items collected by Kostas Valsimades, a retired sponge diver. There is also a wreck of an ancient ship, amphorae, and various stuffed fish. Check the opening times for the museum, as they vary according to season.
Kalymnos is well known to rock climbers because of its irresistible combination of challenging cliff face routes, and breathtaking scenery. Climbing is possible on all year round, weather permitting, although you might find it difficult to find accommodation off-season as most places (including tavernas) close in October.
Kos town retains its Italian architectural heritage with splendid Ottoman and Italianate buildings. Not only is it a popular beach resort, it also has ancient ruins, most of which were uncovered after the earthquake of 1933; including Greek and Roman remains consisting of elegant columns and beautiful street mosaics, which were then subsequently excavated and restored by the Italians.
Kos is a delightful town to explore, and streets often end up in small squares, full of flowers, vines and palm trees. The marina is popular and families stroll along the beachfront promenade as the evening air cools the town. The town's main square (Plateia Eleftherias) is traffic free, and is the site of the Defterdar Mosque and the Archaeological Museum with its collection of 3rd century Roman sculptures and mosaics.
The archaeological area to the south, the Western excavation, is worth visiting. The site includes a Roman nymphaeum, with mosaic floors, and the remains of some fine houses. The House of Europa has a floor mosaic depicting a well endowed Europa being carried off by a bull. There are also some paved marble streets and restored colonnades. The Casa Romana is a 3rd Century CE Roman villa which has been completely rebuilt and restored. It consists of three courtyards, swimming pools, and mosaics. Nearby is the Roman Odeon, a restored theatre.
Asfendiou is a traditional Greek settlement nestling in the heart of the island’s lushest forest. It’s off the beaten track, but worth a visit for the tranquillity.
Pilaiopili has a ruined castle on a pinnacle of rock, and has wonderful views over the hills and sea.
Asomati has arguably the most photogenic whitewashed houses on the island and for those who enjoy authentic Greek cuisine, Evangelistra has some of the best tavernas on the island.
The Asklepion, above the village of Anatolia, is world famous for its native son, Hippocrates who introduced the Hippocratic Oath;and street names, statues, a medical centre and even a tree are named after him. Little is known about him, but it is generally accepted that he was born on Kos around 460BCE and died on his native island around 377 BCE. He introduced radical new ideas for treating the sick and travelled round Europe teaching his ideas, before returning to his native island and founding a medical school. He is generally accepted as being the father of Western medicine and all new doctors take his oath at the start of their careers.
The ancient sanatorium is a major tourist attraction and is best visited either first thing or in late afternoon. It was both a temple to the god of healing, and a renowned medical centre that functioned for almost a 1,000 years before falling into disrepair. It is sited on hillside terraces that are connected by a beautiful marble staircase, with views across the sea to Turkey.
Although little of the original centre remains, due to repeated earthquakes and its use as a quarry by the crusaders; teams of German and Italian archaeologists began to excavate the site in 1902 and some Corinthian columns dating from the 2nd Century AD were re-erected by the Italian team. On the topmost terrace, there is an earlier Doric temple.
Andimakia, is home to the iconic Kos windmill and it is now preserved as a working museum, which stands on the main street with its sails unfurled. The village’s whitewashed houses are also much photographed and appear on many postcards. Nearby is a Venetian castle with splendid views and is within easy walking distance of the village.
Nisyros is noted for its active volcanic fumaroles, steam vents, boiling mud and sulphur. However, the trip up the crater is not suitable for everybody. The route is precipitous with very steep slopes and it is necessary to wear stout walking shoes, as the ground underfoot is extremely hot and is very unsuitable for flip flops.
For less intrepid souls, the village is very picturesque with narrow streets, abundant bougainvillea and other beautiful flowers and is definitely worth visiting.
The main port of Lipsi curves round a very large lagoon. Beautifully painted fishing boats with their nets spread out to dry on the quayside, make the scene seem almost like a film set and one almost expects to find Anthony Quinn’s Zorba sitting in one of the cool tavernas overlooking the bay. Lipsi is very popular with the yachting set and is always busy.
Much of Lipsi was once owned by the church and the island is dotted with numerous small chapels. The Church museum has an interesting collection of ecclesiastical items, from various periods.
Rhodes Town is renowned for its archaeological treasures and sits on the northern tip of the island with the sea on three sides. To make the most of the city, take the scenic holiday train outside the town hall for a tour of the sites. The driver provides an excellent commentary and will happily answer your questions. After that, it’s a good idea to buy a map and guide, because there is so much to see and it is easy to miss real gems.
A good place to start is Symi Square near Mandraki harbour, for a tour of the Castello where the knights left their most enduring mark. For a different era in Rhodes' history, visit the Plane Tree Walk where the clock tower marks the wall that separated the knights' quarters from the rest of the city.
One of the island's most noted beauty spots is at Ialyssos. This was once one of three great cities on the island and there are traces of third century temples to Zeus and Athena which sprawl out before the monastery and nearby subterranean church. The beautiful monastery was badly damaged during the war but has since been completely restored. Stunning views and a riotous carpet of flowers make this place a favourite with photographers and botanists in spring.
Houses looking like giant sugar cubes cluster above a horseshoe bay and make Lindos one of the iconic Greek towns. The narrow, cobbled streets are pedestrian only and many houses boast beautifully laid out black and white pebble courtyards. The main attraction is the ancient acropolis enclosed by the walls of a Crusader fortress. A temple to Athena stands atop the outcrop above Lindos and is a popular subject of photographs of the island.
Rhodes’ world famous Butterfly Valley near Petaloudes is the home of Jersey tiger moths, Euplagia quadripunctaria. They are very well camouflaged and difficult to see except in flight when they show deep red over wings. Because they come to the valley to mate, tourists are encouraged to be as quiet as possible in order not to disturb the moths.
The 60-minute walk through the valley is very pleasant and visitors can cool off in the small pools which are fed by waterfalls. There are a number of wooden bridges to cross and decent walking shoes are essential.
Monolithos castle is a favourite destination for visitors and is an impregnable fortress built on top of a precipitous rock; it is a steep 15min hike up to it, and good walking shoes are essential to cope with the terrain. Within the castle walls stands the church of Agios Panteleimon.
