The islands that make up the Eptanisi (literally ‘seven islands’) are very different from each other and stretch from well known Kerkyra  (Corfu) in the north to little known Kythira (ΚΥΘΗΡΑ) in the south, off the coast of the Peloponnese.

Corfu has had a colourful history and its town’s architecture has been influenced by the Venetians, French and British who influenced the architectural style during their governance of the island. The results are impressive and attractive and make Corfu town an interesting place to visit. The town is dominated by double forts. The 13th century Neo Frourio (New Fort) with its dungeons, cellars and impressive turret battlements is generally thought to be much more interesting than the 6th century Paleo Frourio (Old Fort). The Spianada public square and park is one of the biggest in Europe.

It is of course extremely popular and is at best described as lively. The peaceful island described by Gerald Durrell in his popular books, based on his early life in Corfu, no longer exists although there are some places that are still relatively tranquil if you look hard enough.

The lovely village at Lefkimi is well off the beaten track and visitors feel that they have taken a step back in time. Donkeys are still used as transport and you may even spot the odd Greek in traditional costume. The village has two striking churches, Agios Theodoros is in the main square and the distinctive orange dome of Agios Arsenos can be seen for miles. There are small beaches and fishing harbours at nearby Petriti and Boukari.

A ‘must do’ is to take a boat trip to Paxos and Parga. It takes 2-3 hours to get to Parga, depending on the weather, and then a further 90mins to get to Paxos. If you are staying on the north coast, a coach trip to Corfu Town takes 45mins.
Parga is a beautiful little town of coloured houses with a broad sandy beach and crystal clear water. As well as visiting Parga itself, you can also take boat trips from Sidari and Roda daily, for popular swimming places such as Erikousa in the summer. Boats also leave from the port of Agios Stephanos from Monday to Thursday. There are also trips from Corfu Town though these take rather longer.

Corfu's long-distance footpath is about 220 km long round the length of Corfu island; from the southerly white cliffs of Arkoudillas to Cape Agia Ekaterini in the north. Paths have been cleared and the trails are indicated by yellow signs. There are 11 daily walks and terrain varies, from rough tracks to cobbled mule paths, minor roads and beaches. The best months to follow the trail are from February to June and from September to November.

Ithaca is almost split in two by the bay at Ateos, leaving two large peninsulas north and south. The north has the best resorts, the biggest villages and the more interesting walks. The south has the capital at Vathi and the more important links to Homer. Just over a hundred years ago another famous poet, CP Cavafy, wrote a tribute to this ancient island, and you may well echo some of his lines……

The port of Vathy or Vathi has one of the most beautiful seafront settings in Greece, lying at the end of a long, deep bay and surrounded by mountains. The wooded islet of Lazaretto sits in the bay with a picturesque, whitewashed church.

The poor state of the island roads makes Vathi the best base for exploring the island by boat although there are several walks to sites that claim a mention in the Odyssey. Ferries leave here to mainland Greece, Kefalonia, Corfu and Italy and boats offer trips around the island and to neighbouring Kefalonia.

West of Vathy, the huge bay at Aetos almost cuts Ithaca in two. Its dramatic setting with its steep ridge above and towering cliffs is breathtaking. The narrow mountain ridge separates the north from the south; and is a favourite destination for hikers, who are rewarded with fantastic views of the bays on either side of the ridge. The ruins of a citadel built in the 8th century, but abandoned in Roman times, make a welcome resting place.

Above the beach at Dexia is the Cave Of Nymphs also known as Marmarospilia (marble caves). This is the cave where Odysseus is supposed to have hidden his treasure on his return from Troy. What treasures have been found are more of an archaeological nature and can be found in the museum in Vathi.
The Arethousa Spring, where the swineherd Eumaes supposedly brought his pigs to drink, is about 10 km south of Vathi and is popular with experienced hikers and should not be attempted by novices or lone hikers. The route is steep, although the views are breathtaking. Follow the signpost marked Marathis Plateau and when you get to the village of Anemothouri, you will find a sign (in blue and white) pointing to the Arethousa Fountain trail. Unlike other islands, the trail markers are red rather than yellow.

Stavros is the capital village of north Ithaca and sits at the foot of Mt Neritos. The lovely churches of Sotiris, Agia Varvara and Zoodochos Pigi are places to stop and visit. A stern and imposing bust of Odysseus stands in the central square, as well as several coffee shops and tavernas and there some traditional houses which escaped unscathed after the 1953 earthquake. The small Archaeological Museum has a display of artefacts from the Loïzos Cave, which was once used as a temple.

Exogi is one of the oldest villages on Ithaca and its position offers spectacular views of the sea and surrounding countryside. The main church of Agia Marina shouldn’t be missed, nor should the graves of a local builder and his mother be missed. It’s not everyday that one comes across mini pyramids in a sedate Greek village, and closer inspection reveals that they were built in 1933 and 2 of them mark the last resting place of their creator and his mother. There is an interesting story connected with them and for a cold beer or cup of coffee, one of the older villagers will happily recount the tale.

Frikes and its neighbour Kioni are beautiful resorts in the north of the island and exude oodles of Greek island charm. Frikes is a sleepy village, fragrant with bougainvillea and jasmine. Cafés and tavernas are spread around the pretty harbour and are always popular with both locals and visitors. Ferries from Lefkas arrive in the morning and the village is briefly busy with the new arrivals before life returns to its usual soporific pace.
Frikes is a good base to explore the island from, and has splendid walks through verdant countryside as well as trails along the coastline.

Kioni is another iconic Greek island resort, with well kept houses and flats covering the hills around a secluded horseshoe-shaped bay. It keeps its tranquillity by banning cars during the summer months, so you will either have to walk or hire a bike to get around.
There are small coves at the mouth of the bay, traditional windmills on the headland and old mule tracks to explore. Below the windmills there is a steep, short and narrow shingle beach, with overhanging trees for shade at one end which serves the town (it takes about half an hour to walk to it).

Kefalonia’s capital, Argostoli is home to the Koryialeno Folk Museum which can be found in the centre of the town. It has an exhibition of local costumes, furniture and embroidery, as well as paintings, maps, jewellery and local crafts. The museum also houses a library and historical archives, with rare manuscripts from the 16th to the 19th centuries and many photos of the town before it was wrecked by the island earthquake in 1953.

The ArchaeologicaL Museum displays artefacts dating back from Prehistoric to the Geometric Period as well as from later Hellenistic, Classical, Roman and Byzantine times.

The coastal road that runs from Argostoli to Lassi  passes though pine forests and is very scenic. On the headland north of Argostoli is Katovethres where there is a restored watermill near the site of the famous Katavothres swallow holes. This is endlessly fascinating as you see the sea disappear underground only to reappear on the other side of the island. There is also an isolated lighthouse which is very popular with artists and photographers. On the road to Lassi, at Grandakia, there are gorgeous little coves of pink sand, as well as sea caves and rocks which are ideal for snorkelling.

A side road drops from the main coast road down to the sea and leads to Lourdas (Lourdhata) where the village square has an enormous plane tree and, for hikers, the start of a two kilometre nature trail.

At Potomakia, there are guided tours to the beach where loggerhead turtles (Caretta caretta) nest which take place every summer from June to September.

The coast road north of Sami leads to  Karavolimnos which has a narrow shingle beach and an interesting watermill.

Agia Efimia is a pretty little fishing village a few kilometres north of Sami. Its harbour is one of the departure points for boats to Ithaca and the mainland port of Astakos. It is popular with hikers and for those who just want to watch the world go by, there are tavernas down by the harbour.

Assos is a well kept secret, hidden inside the narrow neck of a peninsula that ends at the foot of a huge rock outcrop; which is topped by the ruins of a Venetian castle. To really appreciate it, it’s best to come by boat. There are numerous beautiful empty coves on each side of the peninsula, just waiting to be explored.

The 1953 earthquake devastated the village, but it was rebuilt and today it is home to 85 residents. Assos was the capital of northern Kefalonia for a few short years after 1593 when the castle was first built. Although the castle is now in ruins, the views from it are spectacular and it formed the backdrop for almost every sunset scene in the film Captain Corelli's Mandolin.

Between Argostoli and Lassi are the villages of Peratata and Travliata and above them, stands the well preserved Venetian Castle of St George with numerous coats of arms decorating the massive bastions (one of which conceals a secret tunnel which ran to a lagoon in Argostoli).

The original castle was Byzantine and probably built in the 12th century CE. The external walls that survive today were constructed by the Venetians in 1504. You can still see cannon placements, observation posts and the remains of a bridge. The castle is usually open in the summer though sometimes closed for restoration work. Check in the village first.
Beneath the castle walls are the remains of houses with panoramic views over the island. There are also the remains of churches. For hungry and thirsty visitors, there is a café, and restaurant and bar.

The magnificent monastery of Agios Andreas is the focal point of the village of Peratata and is filled with 17th century frescoes, its precious relic, the sole of St Andrew's foot, as well as a splendid icon collection.

If you have a head for heights, 120 nearly vertical steps take you down to the cool, damp limestone caves of Drogorati which bristle with stalagmites, stalactites, sodium lamps, as well as camera flashlights. The main cavern is impressive and is big enough to host orchestral concerts.
Inside the cave visitors get the feeling that they have become speleologists (with a dash of Indiana Jones thrown in for good measure) and it’s the closest most visitors will get to the real thing, short of taking caving up as a hobby. The presence of numerous tourist shops at the exit shatters the illusion, alas.

At nearby Mellisani, boatmen ferry visitors around an underground lake which has a collapsed roof, caused by an earlier earthquake. The underground lake is approached through a long dark tunnel, and is perhaps not suitable for claustrophobic visitors. Once through the tunnel, the light pouring in from the hole above and the brilliant aquamarine water below bathes the scene in an incredible blue light, which is quite unforgettable.

Kefalonia is the largest and most mountainous of the Ionian islands and distances to resorts are relatively large. If you hire a car, driving around the island can be somewhat unnerving to the visitor. Roads are generally better than most islands but driving along precipitous mountain passes can be a death defying experience with many hairpin bends and near vertical drops. Apart from the obvious hazards, drivers must always be on their guard for the unexpected as well; such as the odd snake or two sunbathing in the middle of the road or herds of large hairy goats suddenly appearing from nowhere and taking up a somewhat proprietorial interest in the road, usually just round the next bend.  

Buses are infrequent; but those that cross the island between the ports of Argostoli in the west, and Sami in the east, offer spectacular views.  Passengers need nerves of steel and a cast iron stomach as the bus lurches around bends, usually picking up an impressive speed as it rattles downhill. If you can bear to open your eyes, the west coast route is spectacular, with the road cut into the side of the mountain high over the sea. The road north from Sami takes you along spectacular cliffs.

Lefkas is very popular with yachtsmen, and the capital, Lefkas Town is found at the northernmost tip of the island. Earthquakes in 1948, 1953 and more recently in 1971 have resulted in a mixture of architectural styles; and the brightly painted houses are often topped with wood and corrugated iron to counter any future damage from earthquakes.

The narrow lanes, which are free of traffic, and its small size give it a village atmosphere, belied by the richly decorated Venetian churches packed with fine works of art. There are four museums; the Lefkas Phonograph Museum with its collection of old gramophones and records is fascinating. The main square is usually packed with visitors in the summer, and talk of boats is usually the sole topic of conversation, as the sun sinks over the yardarm.

For landlubbers, the 17th century CE Faneromeni monastery amidst its pine forest above the town, offers fabulous views.

The main fortress at Santa Mavra was built in the 13th century by Giovanni Orsini and later extensively altered by Venetians, Turks and earthquakes. In 1888 an accidental gunpowder explosion reduced many of the buildings to rubble. These days, the upper storeys have been constructed from wood and corrugated iron sheeting, to minimise any earthquake damage.

Nidri is a gem sitting at the mouth of Vylcho Bay. The Vafkeri waterfall, further inland, may be worth a visit in April or May, but droughts over the past few years have reduced its flow. The waterfalls get more spectacular the higher you climb.

Just north of Nidri is the quiet village of Perigiali has tiny shingle beach and a small quay where the fishing boats tie up. The beach has glorious views across the water to the tiny islets that dot the bay. Behind the village, the landscape is full of olive groves and gentle hills. It is very popular with artists.

Lygia, is a sleepy village some 5km to the south of Nidri and is a wonderful place to get away from it all. It is a ‘one street’ place and the tavernas and a couple of bars are in the main street, with views across to the mainland and to the castle of Agios Giorgios in the distance. This is a great place for ramblers with paths through the surrounding pine woods and olive groves. There is also a rather romantic walk through the Koilada tou Erota (valley of love) at Paradissos.

The resort of Nikiana is some 4 km further on and spreads out along the coast road with hills behind. The tavernas serve excellent fish, and there’s nothing to beat sitting by the sea, ouzo in hand and a plateful of freshly caught fish in front of you. Like Lygia, there are excellent walks and also there’s a regular bus service to the north and south of the island.

Poros, like most island villages, is full of narrow alleys and beautiful traditional houses built on steep wooded slopes overlooking the bay. The church of Analipsi has some interesting icons, the most important being an icon of the Virgin Mary dating from the 17th century CE.

Sivota, is well known to the yachting fraternity for its sheltered anchorage and excellent fish tavernas, and is to be found at the head of a deep inlet. It lies in a picturesque wooded valley and is a very peaceful spot.

Vasiliki has a pleasant harbour area with cafes and tavernas. The surrounding countryside is relatively flat and has good paths and cycle trails. It is better known for its water sports and large numbers of windsurfers descend to take advantage of the bay which, due to the quirkiness of the local geography, is often calm in the mornings and windy in the afternoons. The beach is not very suitable for sunbathing, but it is ideal for surfers as it is shallow (about a metre) for some distance out to sea.

Agios Nikitas is a lovely resort on the west coast of the island. The main road through the village runs down to the beach, with tavernas and shops on either side. The road has been pedestrianised and motorists must their vehicles at the top of the hill. Surrounding hills are covered in pine and olive groves.
The white beach at Porto Katsiki is awesomely beautiful, and the sea is so clear that the shadows of anchored boats darken the sea bed.
Cape Lefkas is at the extreme south and the cliffs drop some 70 metres into the sea. It was here that the poet Sappho was reputed to have leapt into the sea to cure herself of unrequited love. It is called Lady's Cape by the locals, in her honour; and according to local legend, lunatics and criminals were once thrown from the cliffs to cure them of their evil ways often with live birds attached to slow their descent.

Meganisi is the largest island, offshore, and attracts large numbers of day visitors. Many go to see the huge and impressive sea caves. The port of Vathi has good restaurants whilst Spartokori has a pebble beach and some tavernas.

Paxos is a Greek island in miniature with its tiny villages, tiny beaches and tiny hills. Abundant flora and fauna also make it a favourite with amateur botanists and ornithologists, especially in spring. With around a quarter of a million olive trees, it is also reputed to give the best olive oil in the world - though other islands might dispute the claim.

The main port at Gaios is named after the saint who brought Christianity to the island. The very attractive resort has a crescent quayside backed by a handsome Venetian square. Cafes and tavernas fringe the picturesque harbour. As the roads are far too narrow for cars, it is fully pedestrianised. Whitewashed alleys lead off the main square, and are filled with shops selling beautiful locally made pottery and fine jewellery. It can get very busy during the summer, and the narrow streets can become uncomfortably full.

A couple of outlying islets Agios Nikalaos and Panagia provide natural protection from the sea and pleasant views. Worth seeing are the castle on Agios Nikolaos, though you need a permit first from the local council; and you can visit the monastery on Panagia islet. The Church of Agios Apostoli has many fine icons and there is an ancient cistern to the right of the church.

Loggos is the smallest of the island ports, and even more beautiful than Gaios. It sometimes doubles as a film set, due to its picturesque seclusion. A very well kept secret is the outstandingly high quality of the tavernas, whose menus are mouth-wateringly good. Just south of Loggos is a beautiful shingle beach at Levericho which also has a beach taverna, which is unusual for Paxos.

The road curls inland here so it requires a walk to get to the shingle beaches of Kipos and Marmari, the latter set in a very pretty bay with the advantage of shade from the olive trees that grow right down to the shoreline. There are many small coves in the area for those who like a spot to themselves, though many can only be reached by boat.

Lakka sits in a lovely horseshoe bay flanked by silver green olive groves and stands of cypress. The village itself has a small square hedged with Venetian buildings and a maze of narrow alleys; and is the best centre for island walking as there are several good tracks leading inland or along the coast for spectacular Cliffside views.

The west coast cliffs and sea caves are stunning, and are arguably the best anywhere in the region and some are large enough to take pleasure boats; but the only way to see it from the sea is by an excursion boat as hired boats are not allowed here, to protect the area. The cave at Kastanitha is the most impressive at 600 ft high though the largest is at Grammatiko, but all are worth a visit.

The cliffs above Erimitis Bay are very popular, particularly at sunset and the Sunset Bar (follow the signs from Boikatika) is a very popular place in the evening.

Zakynthos had to be  rebuilt after the catastrophic earthquake of 1953 which destroyed most of its elegant Venetian buildings and many of their inhabitants. The town’s main square has a statue to the island's favourite son Dionysius Solomos the writer of the Greek national anthem. Perhaps the best place to meet in town is at Plateia Agios Markou, which is lined with tavernas and cafes, serving arguably the best food on the island.

Two churches, worth visiting, survived the earthquake. Agios Nicholas has been renovated and the spectacular Agios Dionissios contains some good icons and a magnificent carved silver coffin.

The beach at Alykes gets it name from the salt pans that surround the resort. The beach itself is a 3km long stretch of golden sand that sweeps around the bay from Alykanas to the salt flats behind the village. A walk around the latter has a creepy moonscape atmosphere but the beach itself is magnificent and quite the best north of Zakynthos town.
Although the sea is shallow for a few metres, it suddenly dips sharply making it great for surfers who take advantage of the big breakers that roll in when the wind is in the right direction.

Volimes is the largest of the island's hill villages, actually a conglomeration of three smaller hamlets within a few minutes walk of each other. Prepare to take a step back in time as each is a living museum, with some of the best preserved buildings on Zakynthos. Villagers sell local embroidery, cheese and exceptionally good honey.

The tiny port at Agios Nikolaos is the main port linking Zakynthos to Kefalonia with a daily ferry. Caiques also venture to the nearby islet of the same name as the resort and to the Blue Caves, which are well worth visiting.

Two steep limestone bluffs rise at each side of a narrow inlet at the small but beautiful village of Porto Vromi which has a sheltered harbour, for a few fishing boats, and a narrow strip of white sand and shingle. You can also get boat trips from here to the nearby Blue Caves.
Above the harbour is the 15th century monastery of Panagia Anafonitria, noted for its lovely frescos.

Keri is on the southernmost tip of the island and boasts several picturesque pre-earthquake buildings. There was a lake here once, now drained, and the area is sometimes referred to as Keri Lake ( Limni Keriou). The view from the beach is impressive with high cliffs flanking both sides and the turtle island at Marathonisi.

The Vasilikos peninsular is spectacular, with unblemished countryside, virgin forest and some of the best beaches on Zakynthos. However, it is not well signposted and is best approached with a strong sense of adventure or a good satnav system. The beach at Gerakas is a beautiful crescent of golden sand with sandstone cliffs curving around the bay offering good shelter and shallow waters. It is also a major turtle breeding ground, and has been designated as a conservation area.

Around the headland and set on the tip of the peninsula is the tiny cove of Porto Roma. It’s yet another incredibly beautiful spot, with olives and pines shading the shore, and clear blue sea shimmering below cliffs covered in rich vegetation.

The northern coast is littered with caves and seas eroded cliffs that act as a magnet for tourist boats. Most spectacular of all is the Kianou Cave which bathes in a light of shimmering blues best viewed in the early morning. Daily boat trips also take in the caves at Sklavou and the sulphur springs at Xinthia where the sand is so hot you need shoes for protection.

Roads are not numbered and signs - in the few places they exist - rarely point in the right direction. This is especially true in the north around shipwreck cove where you are better off going in any direction that doesn't point to where you think you want to go.