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  Greek Islands (Saronic) 


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EGINA, (pronounced Ayeena) sits in the Saronic Gulf just 20 miles from the mainland. It's so near you can even see it from the Acropolis on a clear day. It's a small, roughly triangular island about eight miles by six. To the north and west are fertile coastal plains, noted for crops of pistachios, almonds and figs. To the east and south are hills rising to the conical Mount Oros (Zeus, Profitis Illias) and a long rocky ridge with narrow fertile valleys on either side. There is also a small artistic community with a reputation for fine ceramics.

Aegina Town looks a bit like a film set, or a painting brought to life. The crescent shaped harbour is backed by neoclassical houses - some painted in bright colours - with tavernas, coffee shops and cafes trailing along the water's edge. There are, however, quaint narrow streets and quiet corners ensure it hasn't lost all its charm.

Small cafes abound and the island-grown pistachios are sold everywhere; as well as a plethora of fruit, nuts and other delights which are sold from boats moored to the quay. There are many shops specialising in locally made pottery, and they are well worth looking for in the back alleys of Aegina Town.

The Greek Orthodox cathedral of Agios Demetrios is where the first government of modern Greece was sworn in and is well worth a visit. North of the town at Cape Kolono is a fluted 23-ft high column, the last remnant of a temple built in the 5th or 6th century BCE to Apollo. Recent excavations have also uncovered a theatre and a stadium, but the work is still in progress.
The Aegina Archaeological Museum, the first museum of its kind in Greece, houses some significant island finds, though to see the best, you’ll need to visit Athens.
Marathonas is a traditional fishing village, 4km south of Aegina Town and is a pretty village with only 250 or so permanent inhabitants; it has a relaxed atmosphere with houses climbing behind the resort up the steep hillside, offering spectacular views out to sea. The hills also offer opportunities for mountain climbing as well as hill walking. Nearby is the imposing monastery of Panagia Chrysoliodis dating from the 16th century CE.

The pleasant fishing village of Perdika has a lot of traditional Greek charm with its picturesque flower filled streets and pleasant fish tavernas. Excursion boats leave regularly for the islets of Moni and Angistri.

The uninhabited islet of Moni sits opposite Perdika and is thickly wooded on its western side. It has become something of a nature reserve with deer, rabbits, wild goats and peacocks roaming free. The islet has a tiny sand and shingle beach with shallow waters, but the rocky shoreline is probably more suitable for those who enjoy snorkelling.

The tiny sea port of Portes is reached overland from Aegina Town or along the coast road south from Aghia Marina and perches rather dramatically over the sea. A little way inland is the EKPAZ wildlife sanctuary which has handled around 5,000 animals and birds since it was opened. Entry is free and you get a guided tour from 10 am to 7pm. It has a small souvenir shop where you can make a donation to the excellent work going on there.

A short walk south out of Aghia Marina brings you to the picturesque inland village of Alones nestling in a deep green valley, where there are a number of tavernas. Horse-buggies wait to take romantic diners back to Aghia Marina afterwards.

Mesagros is a mountain village close to the temple of Aphea. It’s well known for its flowers, many unique to the area, and for its ceramics. Also of interest is the House of Rodakis, a fine example of 1880s architecture in very good condition. On May 21 there is a village festival centred around the church of Agios Konstantinos.

Vayia or Vagia is a small port around 4 km east of Souvala and has a relaxed air of a bygone age. Nearby is the village of  Agius, smothered in pines and noted for its water jug pottery and the church of the Apostle Crispus.

Souvala has a good range of tavernas around the harbour where you can see the lights of Piraeus on a clear night. The resort is also well known for its health spa for sufferers of rheumatism and those with various skin disorders.

In the midst of pistachio and olive groves in the north west of the island is the village of Kipseli with its fine central square and traditional two-storey homes. The name means 'beehive' and local tales have it that the village was renamed after protests from local girls at the former name of Halameni which meant 'ruined'. This is the most prosperous area of the island with extensive orchards and farms stretching over the green plain. The village is noted for its huge number of chapels, another reflection of the area's wealth.

The temple of Aphaia, (Aphaiia or Apheae) stands on a pine covered hill around 4km from the bay at Aghia Marina. The 5th century BCE Doric temple is well preserved with some 24 limestone columns still standing, making it the main visitor attraction on the island.
It was dedicated to Aphaia - a hunting nymph daughter of Zeus and very much a local divinity - and first excavated in 1811 and again in 1901 and the artefacts were sent abroad. Some of the less important finds can be found in the museum in Aegina.

The remarkable Agia Nektariou or Nektarios is a place of pilgrimage for the sick and disabled. A former dean of the School of Theology in Athens, St Nectarios was renowned for his healing powers and was the first saint to be canonised by the Orthodox Church in modern times. He is buried here and is the patron saint of those with cancer, heart trouble, arthritis, epilepsy and even the unemployed.
St. Nectarios lived from 1846 until 1920. The church, which is reputed to be the largest in Greece, is south of Souvala on the main road from Aegina Town to Aghia Marina There is a mass pilgrimage each November.

South of Aghia Nektarios a track leads to ruins at Paliohora or Paleochora (and several other variations), which was once the capital of the island under the Venetians and the Turks when the coast was plagued by pirates. The former town is set in the side of a steep hill, crowned with the ruins of a Venetian castle. In the 18th century there were around 400 homes here and 20 or so churches.
The town was abandoned in 1826 and most of the houses demolished but a cathedral and some chapels have been restored and many contain excellent frescoes and impressive iconostases though you need permission to view. If you are lucky, and get there early in the day, there is usually someone around to unlock doors and point out the most interesting sights. A small donation is not unwelcome and should be offered.

On a hill near Perdika is a remarkable Camera Obsura House, with twelve openings. Light enters the covered WW2 gun emplacement to create a 360°12-part panoramic image of the outside world, upside down and reversed on a semi-transparent screen.

The former monastery of the Virgin Chryssoleontissa on the road to Marathon is now a convent and access is restricted. It dates from 1600 CE and has a splendid carved iconostasis. It stands high in the central hills - a one-hour hour walk south from Aghios Nektarios. There is a road, but you still have to walk the last 300 metres or so as it is unsuitable for vehicles.

Mount Oros is Aegina's highest mountain, an extinct volcano, 532 metres high. A tiny chapel crowns the summit and on its lower slopes is the ancient church of Taxiarchis. There are great views of surrounding villages such as Kpotides, Lazarides, Pahia Rahi and Vlahides. A road of stone steps leads from the road in the Pergaene region to an ancient site where it is said that Aeacus established the worship of Zeus.

ANGISTRI

Until the 1920's, Agistri was virtually uninhabited and today it has a permanent population of just over a thousand. There are three villages on the island; the largest of which, Skala, is also the main port. Milos lies a short distance down the coast road and the traditional village of Limenaria is approximately 10 km along the coastal road on the other side of the island.

The island is an ideal resort for those who want to avoid the crowds and are looking for a peaceful, relaxing holiday. For those who prefer a break from sunbathing, Agistri offers beautiful walks in cooler pine-forested trails. It is also possible to hire bicycles and mopeds to explore the island.

The main beach at Skala is sandy and the gentle slope of the sea bed means it’s ideal for children to play and swim safely in shallow waters. The water around Agistri is crystal clear and perfect for snorkelling from the nearby rocks.

Angistri is the smallest of the Saronic islands, and is a green gem only 55 minutes from Athens.

POROS
Believed to be the island of Poseidon, Poros is a beautiful and interesting island, largely unknown. It is full of dense and verdant vegetation and ringed with pebble beaches and crystalline waters. Located in the heart of Poros Town, the capital of the island, the beautiful little whitewashed church of Agios Georgios (Saint George) is worth-seeing for the treasures it contains including wonderful frescoes painted by one of the most renowned modern painters of Greece, Constantine Parthenis.

The monastery of Zoodochis Pigis is well worth a visit and is set in a dense pine forest, 4 km from Poros town. Although it is close to Athens, it is a perfect place to visit to recharge your batteries.

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