Alonissos is a tranquil, soporific place with lots of old-world Greek charm. The island is green, fertile and heavily wooded with wonderful scenery and a paradise for hikers. The surrounding waters are a marine park and, as a result, Alonissos has some of the cleanest sea in the Mediterranean. The island also has some fine walks. Paths run along the hilly backbone and though the going can get rough, the stunning views make up for any inconvenience.

Patitiri is the island's main port and gets its name from the wine presses that used to be found at the harbour. Patitiri's atmosphere is quiet, soporific even, and broken only by the regular arrival of hydrofoils which pull into the bay to disgorge the daily visitors.

Chora or Palia Alonissos is perched on the hilltop high up above Patitiri and approached up a goat track from the port. It's a 30-40 minute walk on the track or 60 minutes along the asphalt road. This used to be the island capital until the 1965 earthquake, after which the villagers settled in Patitiri. At Chora's highest point there are small squares with cafe bars and tavernas open for the summer season with breathtaking views of the island.

Chora sits on top of the south end of the island and there are several small and steep tracks that lead down to small beaches and coves in almost every direction. One of which is Vithisma which has a dark sand and shingle beach that is hardly visible until you are on it. The beach is used for windsurfing in the high season. Many consider this the best beach on the island, but it is only really accessible by boat.

Mourtias has a delightful small quay at the northern end of a small cove of shingle and stone. Trees on the back of the beach offer some shade and there is good swimming among the rocks each side of the bay.

The small beach at Votsi is one of the most scenic, although somewhat difficult to access as the walk down to the beach is steep and thick with basking lizards even in May. It looks out over a bay of incredibly clear water - so singularly clear the shadows of boats can be seen on the sandy bottom far out into the bay. Those who explore the northern headland above the beach will be rewarded with delightful views, and some very pleasant woodland walks - but care should be taken at the sheer cliff edges which are often hidden from view behind scrub and trees.

The tiny fishing port of Steni Vala is the headquarters of the Hellenic Society for the Protection of the Monk Seal. If you are in luck you may see seals recuperating in the small rescue centre. It is very pretty and has a good selection of tavernas on the quayside.

Chrisi Milia is a lovely pine shaded beach with soft sand gently sloping into a clear turquoise sea and rocky pools at the far end to explore. It is accessible by land, but it is an arduous hour long trek and it is best approached by one of the plentiful taxi boats.

Peristera was once joined to Alonissos and has some nice sandy beaches which are usually fairly quiet, although in high season it becomes very busy. Underwater archaeologists recently discovered an ancient wreck off the island.

Gioura is dramatically rocky with precipitous cliffs and is specially protected as its underwater caves are the main habitat of the Monk Seal. It also harbours a rare species of wild goat and a remarkably beautiful cave in the interior reputed to be the original dwelling of the Cyclops.

Psathouria is small and flat with the remains of an ancient city sunk beneath the waves to the east. In the north is a large lighthouse built in the last century by the French.

The National Maritime Park of Alonissos was the first to be founded in Greece and comprises Alonissos and six smaller islands as well as uninhabited rocky outcrops. The area is an important habitat for many species of fish, birds, reptiles and mammals including the Mediterranean Monk Seal (Monachus Monachus) which has the unfortunate distinction of being one of the rarest animals in Europe. One of these, Piperi, is closed to visitors as it is the most important habitat for the Monk Seal, Eleonara's Falcon and rare plants.

While April can be unsettled it is a popular month with visitors here to experience the Easter festivals. May sees the start of summer in the Sporades with a sharp rise in temperatures towards the middle of the month. There are spring flowers in abundance and, by June, rain is infrequent and temperatures soar. Mid-July sees most visitors arrive to cloudless days and high temperatures. Being a little further north, the meltemi wind is rarely strong and can give pleasant breezes during August when temperatures peak.  September and October bring shorter days, cooler nights and fewer visitors. The sea is at it warmest for swimming in late October though most tavernas are now closed. Stormy weather can then set in, lasting a week or more so, for a late summer break, you may find it better to head south to the Cyclades or even the Dodecanese.

Skiathos is just 12km long and 4km wide and its coastline is peppered with sandy bays and its inland peaks are clothed in fragrant pine. It is very popular with families because of its fine beaches.

The Kalamaki peninsula is ideal for hikers. Walking tracks crisscross the peninsula through the pine forests and the views are well worth the effort.

Kolios is small and attractive bay with a narrow beach of sharp sand. Boats regularly pull into the small jetty and passengers make for the shady taverna. The sandy beach is safe for bathing, as it slopes gently into the sea and is shallow close to the shore. Tree covered headlands west and east make for a sheltered spot. A short walk in either direction off the main beaches reveals many small coves where lucky ones will have a private beach to themselves all day.

The large valley at Planatias has a stream that flows throughout the year. The long and sandy Platanias beach (also known as Aghia Paraskevi) is sandy but it does slope quite steeply into the sea and children need to be supervised. There is also a full range of water sports here and boats for hire.

There are several walks in the area, the best being the walk to Kechria beach which passes a monastery on the way.

The most famous beach is at Koukounaries, where a kilometre-long crescent sickle of golden sand is backed by a wooded nature reserve and a large lagoon. There are good walks to be had in the surrounding woodland.

Between Koukounaries and Agia Eleni is another less well known but equally attractive beach, called Spartacus but also known as Abelakia, which is found by walking further around the rocky headland.

The lovely beach at Lalaria is accessible only from the sea and is famed the world over for its white pebble beach and rock arches. The bleached white stones and undersea marble slabs are responsible for the dazzling aquamarine seashore.

Little has survived of the island’s past. Places probably worth a visit include the Kastro - a fortified former capital built in the 14th century CE on a rock outcrop. It was built as a refuge from marauding pirates, notably the Barbarossa brothers, and commands a dramatic position over the sea. It used to house more than 20 churches and 300 odd homes. Only two churches have survived the ravages of time and several half-hearted attempts at restoration. You can also see part of the wall and gate of the old fort, as well as a half-ruined mosque and a cannon. A wooden drawbridge has been replaced by a flight of cement steps and a house has been rebuilt. You can get there on foot but it is a good three-hour walk.
Most people take one of the excursion boats that make the trip daily from Skiathos town and climb up the very steep steps.
Nearby, and accessible only by boat, are three sea grottos, named Galazia (Blue), Skotini (Dark) and Chalkini (Copper).

Evangelistra is about 5km north of Skiathos town and buried in the most beautiful countryside. You can't see the monastery until you are on top of it. Founded in 1794 CE it was finished around 1806 CE. It has become an important footnote in Greek modern history by virtue of being the place where fighters against the Turks took their oath under the first independent Greek flag. It is a cruciform Byzantine church with three domes. Frescoes are found in the sanctuary but the monastery's real treasure is a magnificent carved wooden iconostasis. On 15 August the ceremony of the Burial of Our Lady is performed.

The monastery of Panaghia Kounistra is just above Troulos and is where the holy icon of Panaghia Kounistra patron of Skiathos was found. It is set in a very pretty spot, has a grape arbour and a taverna within its walls. It has a beautiful gilt wooden iconostasis decorated with vine-leaves and grapes.

Papadiamanti Street, in Skiathos town, is a small alleyway and at the end of it is found the house of Skiathos' most famous son, the writer Alexander Papadiamantis. Considered today as one of Greece's best writers of modern prose he wrote some 170 short stories and several novellas. He wasn't born in the house and left for Athens University in his youth. But he returned here in old age and died in 1911 of pneumonia and drink, aged 59. He published his first novel The Immigrant in the newspaper Neologos while working as a translator in Athens.
The house was built by his grandfather in 1850-1860 and was bought by the Ministry of Culture in 1994. It has two floors with the ground floor now housing the Museum of Skiathos and the upper floors pretty much kept as they were during the author's life.
He lived in the house from 1904-1904 and wrote his novel The Female Assassin whilst in residence. He returned to Athens where a celebration of his 25 years as a writer was held by his patron Princess Maria Bonaparte.
In 1908 he returned to the island and stayed here until he died. Much of his work, and especially his short stories, were influenced by Skiathos and the people who lived here. He concentrated on the tight-knit peasant society and the superstitions and local lore that ruled their lives, steeped in witchcraft, sorcery and myth.

Skopelos is mostly covered in pine forests and has very few beaches and is more suitable for hikers.
 Skopelos Town is noted for its roofs of blue slate and red tile pitching down the steep curved slopes around the harbour. The long, tree-lined waterfront promenade is sheltered by great plane and mulberry trees. The northern end of the town ends abruptly at a cliff wall where a row of chapels perch precariously above. Behind is a cobble stoned maze of streets leads to the 13th century Venetian kastro. Now designated a preservation area, the streets claim to have more than 130 churches hidden among them. Buildings are embellished with balconies, wrought iron trellises, brightly painted shutter and a jungle of flowering plants. You can find locally produced crafts, including extremely beautiful ceramics and nice wood carvings in the town shops. There is also a small Museum of Folk Art, recently renovated.

MILIA is considered by many to be the most beautiful beach on Skopelos. The visitor is greeted by a three silver swathes of tree-lined pebble and sand, crystal clear waters and a large taverna on the central beach. If the main beach gets too crowded there is a small cove to the north that is not often visited. Out to sea is the small, pine clad island of Dasia which is easily reached by boat.

Another kilometre walk to the north brings you to the lesser known Kastani which has a pleasant sand and shingle beach.

The second main town of Skopelos, Glossa, is a picturesque village of 1,200 people with a stunning position high over the sea. There are ruins in Glossa dating from 400 BCE as well as Byzantine walls to poke about in. The traditional village way of life is still carried on here. The houses are mostly two-storey with wooden balconies and the fields are full of plum and almond trees. Several dirt roads lead out of the village to provide lovely walks to nearby sights of interest. The monastery of Agios Ioannis is perched high on rocks overlooking a small cove; the monastery of the Agion Taxiarchon was built on the remains of a 7th century Byzantine church and the Gourouni Cape which has a lighthouse.

Walking to monasteries is one of the more popular pursuits on Skopelos, the other is just walking. Fortunately there are no end of churches and monasteries to visit. In Skopelos town itself there are around 120. The best are at Zoodochos Pigi which has an icon attributed to St Luke and at Chrisso with its splendid gilded interior and the dramatic 18th century church of Panagia Eleftherotria with a fountain beneath a huge plane tree and a slate roof dotted with brightly painted ceramics. Also close by is the Episkopi, a fortified Venetian monastery, left incomplete by the Ottoman invasion. There are also a clutch of monasteries to visit on the Mount Poalouki above the town. The route may be long and hot up a winding track but walkers are rewarded with lovely views.
Evangelistria clings to the rocks and enjoys the most magnificent views over Skopelos town and the bay. The monastery was founded by monks from Mount Athos in the 18th century CE but its huge and impressive gold plated alter screen is from Constantinople and dates from the 14th century. It is now occupied by nuns.
More experienced hikers can attempt the climb to the 16th century Metamorphosis, which stands aloft in a grove of pines. It was been empty for around 20 years but is slowly undergoing renovation, with just one monk in residence now. It has a small chapel set in a flower filled courtyard and holds one of the island's biggest festivals on August 6.
Prodromus can be seen from Metamorphosis just over the next hill. Built in the 18th century CE it is dedicated to St John the Baptist and inhabited by nuns. Ag. Varvara is a fortified monastery now unfortunately abandoned but notable for its 15th century CE century frescoes.

Skyros is the most isolated of the Sporades chain. This remarkable island has two very distinct regions, north and south, separated by a narrow neck of land where most of the permanent population of 3,000 or so live. While the northern half is green, fertile and smothered in pine forests, the south is bare and barren, and scoured by harsh winds. Unlike its neighbours in the Sporades, Skyros is not a great place for beaches. Sunbathers tend to restrict themselves to the sands along the east coast around the main town at Chora.

Skyros is renowned for its traditional Greek festivals especially the scary Apokriatika or 'Goat Dance' carnival leading up to Easter when three weird characters dance through the streets in Chora with other masked revellers. One dresses in goatskins and mask covered in sheep's bells, another portrays a humpback dressed in rags and the third a stranger, dressed in motley clothes and long trousers blowing a conch shell. It is believed to be a relic of goat and cattle cults on the island.

CHORA is the island’s capital and has white Cycladic-style cube houses stacked on top of each other to the summit of Mount Olympus. The town's unusual layout is a result of the houses being built originally to face inland, thus avoiding the attention of passing pirates.
The maze of steep and narrow streets is ideal for walking, although there are always a few intrepid motorcyclists showing off their skills, as they negotiate the tight nooks and crannies. If you wander off the beaten track into the one of the alleys, you could easily get lost for the afternoon. The whole town is crowned by the Kastro‚ a Byzantine fortress with some Venetian trimmings, built over an ancient acropolis. If you decide to walk, it might be advisable to obtain a good map, possibly some ropes and definitely a compass, or even a mobile satnav system. On the way you will pass the church of Agia Triada with some fine frescoes and the white monastery of Agios Giorgios which was consecrated in 962 CE. It was restored in 1984, and has a painting of St George slaying the dragon and an ancient icon of St George. The buildings here are rather more interesting than those below but it is a steep climb. Stalwarts will be rewarded by some stunning views over the town and its harbour. The ancient monastery of Saint George is found near the kastro.
Back down the steps, the main street of Skyros is also narrow and leads to an open square overlooking Molos beach and the sea.

Under Brooke Square and along some steps, is the small archaeological museum which has an exhibition of local copper artefacts‚ and a striking ceramic ring decorated with ducks and snakes from around 900 BCE. The private Faltaits Museum has an interesting collection of domestic items, clothes, embroidery and pottery.

A ten-minute walk down the hill from Skyros town, and a long flight of steps, brings you to the dark sands of Magazia. This beach serves the main town of Chora and is named after the gunpowder magazines once stored there in Venetian times.
At the northern end of Magazia, the rock has been carved and quarried into astonishing shapes and you can see a church and cave-like houses hewn from the stone. Each year, more of the shoreline is eroded by the restless waves.

Linaria, which is a working fishing village, is the main port of Skyros and is approximately 10km from the capital Chora. Most of the tourists arrive here by ferry, which uses the small scenic harbour. It has some excellent tavernas and there is a small beach within walking distance to the north at Aheronnas. But mainly this is used for boat trips around the island. The islet of Skyros Goula has a couple of small beaches and some rather dramatic caves and is a popular destination. There are also trips to the islet of Saka Grino which has a small beach at Glyfada Bay.

Palamari is famous for the site of a Bronze Age settlement which still has the remains of original streets and houses. It was first built around 3,000 BCE and flourished for a thousand years. The total area covers approximately five acres, although the eastern part is now lying under the sea. It thrived because of the rich metal deposits discovered on the site.

A tomb in the southern half of the island is also that corner of a foreign field that is forever England where the poet Rupert Brooke was interred in 1915; many visitors like to make the pilgrimage to Brooke's tomb, which is set in a small olive grove in an otherwise desolate location near Tres Boukes Bay in the south west of the island. The tomb itself, which was restored by the Royal Navy in 1961, is not the site of the original grave. When Brooke died of blood poisoning on a French hospital ship anchored in the bay, the midnight burial party had no time for an elaborate funeral because they had to depart for Gallipoli the next morning. The original grave was just a pile of stones with a wooden cross and Brooke's mother commissioned the present white marble monument at the end of the First World War.

South of Kalamitsa village, the island is almost entirely uninhabited and the road deteriorates as it rises through the mountains. As you descend towards Tres Boukes Bay, you will see the grave tucked away on the left among the olive trees.

The south of the island is also home to the wild and tiny Skyros ponies. They are said to be related to the Shetland pony. They are rare these days and you are unlikely to spot them in the barren plains of the south, though they are protected and local organizations are working hard to maintain a breeding programme, so hopefully numbers will increase. You can sometimes find the odd domesticated pony tethered in Skyros town and children have pony races on Magazia beach during the island's the August 15th festival.