The marchigiani possess the best of North and South - you will rarely meet extravagant displays of Neapolitan emotion nor the cool indifference of Milan.

Try speaking a few words of Italian and your welcome will be that much warmer. If you can only master one line, at least try asking in Italian if people speak English - Parla inglese? Remember that outside the main tourist spots, you will not necessarily find people who can speak English. French is a common second language and German is catching on.

The key to Italian social behaviour is often to be found in the idea of bella figura, or cutting a good figure. This is not just a matter of dressing smartly, though that is included. It ranges from such things as using the right mode of formal address to staying relaxed while waiting. Dirt in all its forms cuts a decidedly brutta figura. Italians, incidentally, spend more than any other nation in the world on household cleaning materials and personal toiletries.

Non-smokers will notice - contrary to the received opinion that all Italians smoke - the rules of bella figura are beginning to cover smoking in restaurants and bars; anti-smoking laws that bring Italy into line with other EU countries are being applied with enthusiasm.